12/1/01 Ventura
Point. It was totally glassy all day. I got out at 3 PM and it still
was smooth as glass. Real small but fun.
Oct 18, Malibu
CA 5:00 PM. First Point was like 1-2 foot and barely ridable. I had
my 11'7 log out to catch a couple sliders with my brother Mike. Nothing
really bigger than waist high but kind of fun on that logger. It can catch
a pebbles wake.
Oct 13, Malibu CA 6:00 AM.
First Point was picture perfect with amazingly clean lines rolling and
light Santa Ana breeze holding the lip up just enough to get a cover up.
One wave I caught was tubing to the point where I could see the sun shinning
through the lip as I shot across the insanely fast section. That is a wave
I won't forget for a couple decades.Oct 3, Malibu, CA 5:00 PM- A late session
at First Point. Hardly any dudes but it was really small. I would say around
waist high with good little peelers.
Sept 29 Topanga, CA Clean
glassy waves were coming in. There was mostly shortboards out but plenty
of room to catch a couple fast rights.
Topanga is much faster than
Malibu sometimes.
Sept 29-30, Malibu First
Point, Noseriders from around the globe raise money for NY victims. 300
top noseriders including Joel Tudor take over Malibu to help out.
Sept 19, Malibu, Ca. The
cam was looking good and I went out at 5:00 PM. I met my friend Dan in
the water. It was 2-3 foot and clean lines. Not a total zoo this time out
either.
Sept 17, Malibu CA, The
past week was pretty gnarls. It was good to get away from the TV and surf
a bit. There was a bunch of dudes out at First Point. It was cranking from
what I saw on the cam and I headed out at 4:00 PM solo style. It was easy
head high but a real thick crowd out. Good waves coming in just at the
right angle.
It was lined up as good
as it can get.
Sept 8, Malibu CA. 5:00
PM. I had not surfed in 10 days. I checked out the cams and Malibu
was going off and there was like one dude out. I picked my friend Dan and
speeded down to find out there was a contest going on. I totally forgot
there was a surf club event. So we headed up to Latigo and caught some
decent sets there.
There was about 5 dudes
out. It did glass off too.
August 27, Malibu, CA.
The swell model was looking
good.
I hit Malibu at 6 PM solamente
style. It was clean about 3 foot some head high sets too. There was around
30 dudes out.
Sept 17, Malibu CA, The past
week was pretty gnarls. It was good to get away from the TV and surf a
bit. There was a bunch of dudes out at First Point. It was cranking from
what I saw on the cam and I headed out at 4:00 PM solo style. It was easy
head high but a real thick crowd out. Good waves coming in just at the
right angle.
It was lined up as good
as it can get.
Sept 8, Malibu CA. 5:00 PM.
I had not surfed in 10 days. I checked out the cams and Malibu was going
off and there was like one dude out. I picked my friend Dan and speeded
down to find out there was a contest going on. I totally forgot there was
a surf club event. So we headed up to Latigo and caught some decent sets
there.
There was about 5 dudes
out. It did glass off too.
August 27, Malibu, CA.
The swell model was looking
good.
I hit Malibu at 6 PM solamente
style. It was clean about 3 foot some head high sets too. There was around
30 dudes out.
Aug. 24 Rincon, Ca. I heard from this chick at the AMPM that Rincon was breaking. I have never surfed Rincon in August before. So I packed Steves 64 ford wagon and headed up 101 style. It was fully warm out and about 1 foot. The water was toasty.
Aug. 22 Ventura Ca, my brother
Mike checked out the point and it was totally flat and not worth paddling
out. The water is kind of artic still too
Malibu, CA August
11.
I checked the cams and swell
model. There was a south showing about 3 foot. I went down to Malibu with
Steve and Mike, in the old 64 Ford Wagon. It was pretty clean. I couple
decent 4 footers. It was a little too fast for Mike.
Malibu, CA August 6,
It was fully hot in the val so I went to Malibu around 1pm and it was like
1-2 with a couple 3 footers during the session. My brother Mike, the begginer,
surfed again and it was a little too crowded for him. There was a million
dudes out this time.
August 2, I checked out
the swell model link and went out for a real late session with my brother
Mike. Mike is just starting out and got a couple at 1st point while there
was a break in the crowd. It was pretty small though but good for a starter.
Malibu, CA July 29,
I went out for a late session with the boys at Malibu. It was pretty flat
but there was a couple rogue 2 footers that came through for some sliders
old school style.
Ventura Point, CA
July 22 I headed up north 101 style with my brother Mike and my friend
Steve in his 1964 Ford Lee Iococa designed Country Station Wagon. The waves
were small and kind of bumpy but it was a perfect day out.
Malibu, CA July 20, I checked
the cams late Friday again and there was a nice 2 foot swell coming so
I headed out at like 7:00 PM. It was cool, not a lot of dudes out and a
good vibe going.
Malibu, CA , July 13, I
checked the cams late Friday afternoon and it was cranking at Malibu. I
got out at about 7 PM. It was going off all night.The crowd was spread
out so you could get some sliders solomente style.
July
9 Malibu, CA , I stopped by Leos Tuesday and surfed a few glassy
rights. There was about 6 dudes out. The inside section was working too.
Surfrider
Malibu,
CA , July 1 was pumping on Monday. Nice south with decent lines coming
in and not totally zooed either. Looks like the swell might stay going
for a bit too.
Malibu,
CA SurfRider was June, 30pretty flat on Thursday. It barely
had enough push to ride and slide but I went out anyways with a local Long
Island, New York visitor and made the best of it.
Malibu,
CA SurfRider June 28 was getting the south swell pretty good
in the morning. I went out at 6 AM so it was not a total zoo yet. A couple
decent sets rolled for fun 200 yard rights. Summers here so it is
going to get a little tight in the line up for a bit.
Bolsa
Chica June 20, was longboardable this past weekend. Real small, but
you know, kind of ok with the
longboard and the sun out.
We paddled out right where Corky Carroll's stuff is located. Bolsa
is also a good spot for beginners.